Spring '08's Fashion Faux Pas: Irony

In the January 31 New York Times Style Section, in an article ominously titled "The Newly Uptight", Stephanie LaCava predicted that a "meticulously tailored look that evokes the White House years of Jacqueline Kennedy" would not only find its way onto Fashion Week's cat walks, but might even have enough staying power to replace the slightly unkempt, Warhol-esque looks that have recently dominated American fashion.

While it may or may not be interesting or even relevant that some trend-setters are wearing a new (or at least refurbished) silhouette, what is interesting is the spirit with which these styles are reportedly being designed and worn. These retro flourishes apparently do not come with wry commentary, whimsy, a wink or a nod. That's right, they are Non Ironic. LaCava alarmingly describes one sedately dressed fashionista who "has embraced the fashions of the Kennedy years without irony" and quotes a retail analyst that explains that these fashions are "harkening back to a day before there were issues." Before issues?

LaCava explains that the past "calls strongly to the present, as the country grows nervous about possible recession and a diminished role on the world stage, even as Americans seek optimism through their presidential candidates" and that the 50s and 60s call so loud because "in retrospect[they were] interlude of prosperity and stability". Hmmm. Maybe we can all just ignore the paranoia, repression and turmoil that defined that 50s and 60s and nostalgically look back, thinking fondly of how nice it was to have money to spend on Opera gloves. It seems to me that many Americans (Presidential candidates especially) have created a genealogy of American Values (aka "Family Values") and have (ironically) located the 50s and 60s as a time when these ideals were exemplified. I guess it was only a matter of time before we all started dressing that way (again).

While LaCava explains how bandeau bras, circle skirts and cinched waists reflect the "seamless appearances and tony aspirations of midcentury Middle America" she does not attempt to critique the figure of the 50s house wife or think about how corseting as a fashion trend might relate to cultural attempts to control womens bodies (did our mothers and grandmothers burn their bras for nothing?), or even ask, isn't Jacqueline Kennedy as Ironic as she is Iconic? Can you do White House Jacqueline Kennedy straight? In retrospect, aren't those buttoned up jackets and white gloves just a little bit sad?

I get it, thats not really LaCava's job. And, really, for a fashion article, this one has a surprising amount of context, and is a pretty good read. The scary thing is that it seems she did a fine job of reporting this trend. The interwebs are filled with tailored, demure images from last weeks fashion shows: retro looks offered earnestly, like quotations without puns. The tastemakers have spoken, and irony is out... and I suddenly lose all interest in fashion.